The Salmon
River Watershed
Historical
The Salmon River has an
important place in the history of British Columbia . John
Cherrington, in his book "The Fraser Valley: A History" states that for the
Sto:lo of the Fraser Valley "...the most important communication route to
the outside world was the Salmon River . The
aboriginals paddled down the Salmon, portaged over to the Nicomekl River , and then floated down to Mud Bay to greet their Nooksack cousins and
engage in trade."
The river and portage were
known as the Tsalkwakyan. The portage is said to have been approximately 8,000
yards over marshy areas near what is now Glover Road in
the Milner area of Langley . This same route
was used by the Songhee, Semiahmoo and the Saanich in yearly migrations in the
other direction to share in the rich harvest of salmon. The village near the
junction of the Salmon and the Fraser (or near present day
Fort Langley) became a centre
for trade and was one of the few permanent village sites in the Lower Fraser
region. The local Kwantlen tribe became rich and powerful.
The Tsalkwakyan also plays a
large part in the early history of the fur brigades. Simon Fraser is said to
have stopped briefly at a large aboriginal village near
Fort Langley (possibly on McMillan Island ). Then in November, 1824, a party
of 39 led by Chief Factor James McMillan made their way from Fort George on the
Columbia, north to Mud Bay and then via the Nicomekl and the Tsalkwaykan to the
salmon River floodplain and the Fraser. When McMillan returned in 1827 to
establish a permanent base, he naturally returned to near the junction of the
Salmon and the Fraser to establish Fort Langley
(originally at Derby Reach then later moved to the present site).
As the name would suggest, the
early settlers soon found the Salmon River and surrounding waterways an abundant source
of salmon. By 1829 the fort had established a trade in salmon with the
aboriginals and in the 1830's a thriving trade in fish curing was established,
with salmon dried and packed in barrels (hardwood for the barrels was obtained
across the Fraser from the area now known as the Stave River) for shipment to
Hawaii. The area south of Fort
Langley (Milner prairie) was developed
for farming with the produce being floated down the Salmon
River on barges.
Ecological
Unfortunately, extensive fish
harvesting eventually led to the extinction of the Salmon
River 's pink and chum salmon stocks. The Salmon River remains,
however, the most productive stream for its size in the Lower Fraser Valley
for coho and for cutthroat trout. Steelhead and at least 12 other
fish species, including the rare and endangered
Salish Sucker,
make their home in the Salmon. Even the chum have made their way back into the
river with counts as high as 800 per year in the last decade.
The Department of Fisheries
has declared the Salmon an index river for coho thus preventing reintroduction
of pink or stocking of coho or other species. Historically, the wild coho stocks
of the Salmon River Watershed have shown much higher survival over their life
cycle than stocks in other streams. Returning numbers, however, have dropped in
recent years to 1,200 from highs of 8,000 to 10,000 in the 1980's. The lower
Salmon River and associated Fort Langley floodplains have also been an
important migratory wetland for wildfowl.
The Salmon River Watershed was
selected by Howard Parish as early as 1980 for special study in regard to
Salmonid Enhancement. He identified the Salmon as being one of the few remaining
productive systems in the Lower Fraser Valley
but as being on the "leading edge" of urban development and thus in
danger of significant habitat degradation. The Watershed has been extensively
studied by Westwater Research of UBC in regard to water quality and its effect
on fish populations. In addition, the Salmon River
was selected by the Fraser Basin Management Project (a coordinated effort by
many levels of government to promote sustainability) in 1993 as one of its six
special demonstration projects with the development of a watershed Management
plan completed a few years later.
Recreational
The floodplain portion of the
Salmon River
continues to be an important recreational area for bird watching, for fishing
and for canoeing and boating. Larry Pynn of the Vancouver Sun floated down the Salmon River from Trinity Western University to the mouth of the river
approximately 10 years ago and recommended this historic paddle as being one of
the best in the Lower Mainland. He was especially impressed that the Salmon River has escaped major drainage projects and thus
is one of the very few rivers in the Lower Mainland which retains its natural
meanders and oxbows.
The
world distribution of this inconspicuous fish is confined to a small area in
northwestern Washington State and the adjacent Fraser Valley of British
Columbia. This contrasts sharply with the range of its nearest relative, the
Longnose Sucker, which is found across northern North America and into Siberia.
More
on the Sucker